Sunday 10 September 2017

XCP Professional lubrication and corrosion protection


XCP Is a real game changer in the world of lubrication and protection for cars, bikes, motorcycles and much much more.
We love it Edd China loves and we know you will too.

XCP One loosens, lubricates, cleans and protects and displaces water. Used by the AA and Honda Racing.

XCP Rust Blocker, maximum protection, long lasting, easy application, clear flexible film. MCN 5 Star rated.



XCP Universal Parts Cleaner, cleans, degreases, displaces water, removes dirt grease and grime. Used by Honda Racing.

XCP Chain Lube, Ultra thin non sticky film, resists high speed fling off.

Supplied by us here with free UK delivery

Have you tried it yet? let us know what you think.

Thanks for stopping by, Mad4bikes Team.



Wednesday 6 September 2017

New Motobatt MBYZ16H High Power Motorcycle battery


The new shape Motobatt MBYZ16H is now in stock at Mad4bikes. The new battery has cut outs on the top between the terminals to suit the battery retaining clamps on some motorcycle models.
For any help choosing the right battery for your bike please contact us by phone or email.

Friday 25 August 2017

Recent Arrivals To Mad4bikes Include Wild Arse Comfort Seat Cushions For Motorcycles

Mad4bikes are proud to be suppling the Wild Ass air cushion motorcycle comfort seat pads
 Wild Ass Air Cushion - Smart Classic Neoprene Rubber (Cruiser Tourer) Style

Made with medical grade neoprene rubber

Universal fit for most Large Cruisers, Standards, Sports Touring, Adventure Touring and Harley’s.



W X L X H
15.5" x 14" x 2"
39.5 x 36 x 5 (cm)

Made with medical grade neoprene rubber, the Wild Ass Classic series are the ultimate in comfort, elasticity and natural “butt feel” in a motorcycle seat cushion.

Neoprene provides a superior reduction of painful pressure points, promotion of blood flow and reduction of shock and vibration.

Classic Cushions are premium priced for frequent, long-distance riders who only want the best level of comfort money can buy.

Each insert can be easily and quickly inflated by hand without the need for specialist equipment, allowing the rider to easily customise the pressure in the insert to their exact specification and riding comfort level!

Special features include a wide front to back cut out to reduce contact with the scrotum, prostate and tail bone.

Tapered front and back air cells provide optimal fit for elevated front and back seat contours and also 


Wild Ass Air Cushion - Smart Lite (Cruiser Tourer) Style
Made of light weight polyurethane
 Universal fit for most Large Cruisers, Standards, Sports Touring, Adventure Touring and Harley’s.

W X L X H
15.5" x 14" x 2"
39.5 x 36 x 5 (cm)
Special features include a wide front to back cut out to reduce contact with the scrotum, prostate and tail bone.
Tapered front and back air cells provide optimal fit for elevated front and back seat contours and also improve leg passage.


 Reduces painful pressure points, promotes blood circulation, reduces heat and moisture build-up and lowers shock and vibration better than any other low cost comfort product on the market. Great for the budget conscious occasional rider.

A) Spreads your weight across the entire cushion area to eliminate painful pressure points.
B) Constant transfer of air from cell to cell promotes blood flow and reduces numbness.
C) Air zone between rider and seat reduces shock and vibration.
D) Space between air cells allows ventilation to disperse heat and moisture.
E) Tapered front and back air cells provide optimal fit to front and back seat contours, improved leg passage and reduced pressure on the scrotum and tail bone.
F) Wide front to back center cut out reduces contact with the scrotum, prostate and tail bone.
G) Wide low profile air chambers provide increased stability.
H) Front end concave design improves seamless fit to the saddle and reduces pressure points on the scrotum.
I) Back end cut out reduces contact with the tail bone.



The Wild Ass Motorcycle Air Seat Cushion Was Designed Using Proven Seating Technology.

The cushion eliminates painful pressure points and promotes blood circulation by utilizing adjustable interconnected air cells which conform to the riders shape regardless of weight or seating position.

Additional key benefits are reduction of shock and vibration to reduce lower back pain and air circulation under the rider to disperse heat and perspiration.

Wild Ass is recommended for motorcycle riders who would like reduction of painful pressure points, increased blood circulation, reduced vibration, shock absorption, heat and moisture reduction and greater overall seat comfort while riding a motorcycle.

Saturday 11 February 2017


Motobatt are the market leaders in the AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) battery industry
Their enhanced AGM batteries feature a maximum increase of 20% more cranking power
This next generation technology delivers superior performance & increased service life
The AGM Battery range has an extremely low internal electrical resistance. This, combined with faster acid migration allows the battery to deliver & absorb higher rates of amperage than other sealed batteries
AGM technology batteries can be charged at normal (lead acid) regulating charging voltages, therefore it is not necessary to purchase special chargers.
The full range is available from stock here at Mad4bikes 

Friday 10 February 2017

Brand new for 2017 and exclusive to Mad4bikes are the MT Thunder 3 SV Effect in matt finish.

A multi dimensional fit and available in 2 shell sizes, this helmet will comfortably fit most head shapes.

For 2017 an all-new aerodynamic shell design features an internal drop down visor and a Pinlock Max Vision visor.

Specs 

- Drop Down Inner Sun Visor
- Hi-Impact Absorption Inner Shell
- Multiple Density EPS Liner
- Optimum Visor Closing
- Homologated Front Protection “P”
- Quick Release Micrometric Buckle
- 2 Outer Shell Sizes
- Pinlock Max Vision Visor
- Removable and Washable Liner
- Optically Correct Anti Scratch Polycarbonate Visor
- Quick Release Visor
- Aerodynamic Design
- Vent System
- ECE/ONU.22.05.P
- DOT Certified
- NBR7471
- NTC 4533



Monday 13 October 2014

YSS Motorcycle fork cartridge emulators / PD Valves

Word By  Paul Berryman. 
Director at Visor vision Ltd.



If your motorcycle is old enough to buy a round of drinks in the USA (that’s 21 by the way) then chances are, it’s got damper rod forks. A damper rod, in the simplest terms, uses the resistance created by squeezing fluid through a hole to create a damping force that will smooth the operation of the suspension. The fluid in this case is fork oil whilst the hole is drilled into the damper rod.

To help imagine the limitations of this, and without using a single scrap of the hard to understand physics behind why, let’s go back to childhood and create a little story in our heads.

In our imaginary story, you have in your hand a bog standard 1960’s/70’s issue water pistol. We’re going to pull the trigger 3 times, in 3 different ways, and we’re going to gauge what happens.

Pull 1) Very slowly pulling the trigger, water dribbles out of the end for as long as you continue to pull. You’ll notice the trigger doesn’t seem to have any resistance against your finger. Although there’s water flowing, there’s not enough pressure to slow (or damp) the triggers progress.

Pull 2) Pull the trigger faster, it’s now clear there’s some damping as the water is squeezed at pressure through the exit hole – this is it’s sweet spot. It feels firm against your finger but yields smoothly to the pressure you’re applying and provides a good strong squirt. Your target is getting soaked.

Pull 3) Try and pull the trigger as fast as you possibly can, much faster than before. Water again squirts out strongly, BUT -  not really any harder than before. You notice the pressure at the trigger is so high, it stops you pulling it as fast as you want to. At the trigger it now feels solid, unresponsive. The damping has stopped simply “cushioning” and is approaching “lock up”.

Got all that? Ok, 3,2,1 – back to adulthood. How boring.

Damper rod forks function by forcing oil through open holes. That’s the same as in principle as our imaginary water pistol.

The limit of their design is that you have a fork that can be too soft to deal with “slow” suspension movements (see Pull 1) and too stiff to deal with “fast” ones (see Pull 3). A slow suspension movement may simply be an undulation in the road, gentle braking or tipping into a corner. A fast suspension movement is akin to hitting one of the UK’s many unfixed meteorite impact sized potholes.

Worth noting that slow and fast in this context have nothing to do with the speed of the bike, only the speed that the suspension is asked to move by the forces acting on the bike – such as hitting bumps, cornering or braking.

With no damping at the slow end, the spring alone is there to absorb the forces. The un-damped energy passing up (and down) the spring will result in a fork that feels “boingy” or “mushy”.

At the fast end, if the damping “locks up” the suspension won’t travel as far or as fast as needed to absorb the bump – the forks feel ridiculously solid and very likely you’ll feel your wrists have taken the majority of the impact. We’re all getting older aren’t we? We deserve better than sore wrists. Not nice.

It’s not all bad news with the old forks, because there is a sweet spot (see Pull 2), and it IS possible to make a damper rod fork with a range of useful operation wide enough to make functional motorcycle suspension. BUT…the system isn’t anywhere near as good as the technology that replaced it. For around 20 years now, our motorcycles have been shipped to us with significantly better ‘cartridge’ forks.

In a cartridge fork the oil doesn’t just flow through an open hole as in a damper rod. There are multiple holes in a piston that pressurises oil inside a cartridge as it moves up and down (hence the name). These holes sit under a stack of deformable shims, also attached to the piston. These rubber shims, which are really just like floppy washers, deflect under pressure from the oil flow, thus creating the damping we need.

The shims are cleverer than they sound. Although you may imagine they simply increase resistance at all speeds of the fluid flow, by making a “stack” of them in varying sizes and thicknesses, they can be tuned to increase damping at low speeds, and decrease damping “lock up” at very high speeds. The result? Suspension that remains plush when dealing with gentle undulations at the lower end and bigger bumps at the top end: the very weakest points of the old damper rod system.

The good news doesn’t end there – in the cartridge there’s a separate piston for both compression and rebound, so you have control of the fork’s damping on both the up and down stroke.

So – if you have damper rod forks, and love the sound of all this new fangled “functional” suspension, how can you get some of the action without changing your original forks for newer items? Well, the clue is in the name and they’re called “cartridge emulators”

A cartridge emulator is a simple yet clever piece of kit that fits into a damper rod fork after some small (and shed-friendly) modifications to your original fork innards have been made. They’re also relatively cheap.

We fitted a set made by YSS into our FZ750 forks, again helped ably by my go-to man for bouncy bits Jon Slenzak of S1 Suspension Technologies near Silverstone. As well as saving me from getting my hands dirty, having Jon do this meant that we also get to chart the forks “before and after” performance by using his shock dyno to measure their damping rates. Cool!


Who is capable of making this modification? Well, simply put - if you can change forks seals and can drill holes in things, then you can do this. The hardest part of the whole job is to get the forks disassembled and assembled again.



Here’s our step by step guide

Undo the fork cap. Be careful! There’s a big tense spring inside just waiting to fire the unscrewed cap off in your direction!
Remove the preload spacer
Remove fork spring
Remove dust seal, circlip, oil seal and top bush (if fitted)
Drain out fork oil, turn fork upside down and pump the stanchion back and forth into the slider – Top tip - don’t bother using the tiny drain hole fitted to some forks, it takes forever and never drains the fork completely.
Option - If you’ve got a mid 80’s Yamaha a Variable Damper may fall out during point 5 – it looks like a cartridge emulator, it isn’t.
Remove the bolt from the underneath of the fork to release the damper rod. An air tool is useful for this to crack the thread before the damper rod spins, or you can lock the damper rod in place by inserting something from the open top of the fork – this could be anything from the correct hex-head tool to a firmly applied broomstick – anything that stops it spinning as you undo the thread will work.
Remove damper rod and top out spring if fitted. A good way to get the damper rod out is to undo the bolt about 5 turns and then tap the head of the bolt to ease the damper rod away from it’s snug fit in the fork bottom.
Your fork is now empty – give it a clean out with brake cleaner and get the last vestiges of old oil out of it.
Clamp the damper rod into a vice and drill out the holes as per instruction – on our forks we had 4 x 5mm holes, the YSS instructions ask for 6 x 8mm holes, that are no closer than 10mm. Doing this means the damper rod flows enough oil through it to now let the emulator do the damping. Clean up any burrs and swarf from the drilling both inside and outside the rod. Be careful to avoid damaging any threads that may be inside your damper rod if you clean up the burrs with a file.
Put the modified damper rod and top out spring back into the slider. The bottom bolt can again be done up using the air/correct tool/broomstick method from point 7 above.
Refit top bush, seal, circlip and dust seal. You may or may not have a top bush depending on the fork.
Now it’s time for the Emulator itself. If using the YSS PD Valves like us, you’ll have the chance to adjust the Compression damping level within the range of 0 to 7 turns in from the end of the adjustment. 2 turns is the suggested setting, whilst more turns will give firmer damping. I chose 4 turns because my FZ will be used on track and could use a little extra support. It’s also cunningly in the middle of adjustment, meaning I can move it either way.
Cut down the preload spacer. Because the PD valve will add a little length to the innards of your fork assembly, you may need to adjust the preload spacer length (or accept that you have preloaded the spring more than it was) Measure the amount of the PD valve that will separate the damper rod from the fork spring and remove that same amount from the preload spacer by neatly cutting it and de-burr it too. (We changed fork springs on this rebuild, and left the preload spacer out completely as our new forks springs are longer and used without a spacer)
Dry run first - Drop the PD valve into fork the correct way up! (it sits between the damper rod top and the fork spring with the threaded adjuster facing to the top.) Add the fork spring and be happy in yourself that it all fits together nicely. If it does than it’s ready for the oil…
Add the fork oil. Remove the PD valve and spring from the dry run and you’re ready to add the fork oil. You’ll need to find your own models suggested oil height and viscosity (the URL at the end of the article should give you what you need). On our FZ, 10-weight oil was suggested along with an oil height of 130mm from the top of the fork tube. This measurement is the distance of the oil from the top of the fork tube, with no spring fitted, and the fork tube resting at it’s lowest point in the fork bottom. Worth noting that rebound damping in the new fork is controlled only by the weight of the fork oil, the emulator itself doesn’t offer any control or adjustment over this. Again because of the track use my FZ will have to endure, we chose to use 15W viscosity fork oil to balance the extra compression damping that we’ve dialled in. Obviously upping the fork oil viscosity will affect the compression damping as well, but if it’s proven to be too much then we’ll go back and reduce it using the adjustment on the emulator.
Drop the PD valve, fork springs and preload spacer back in.
Nearly done – the fork tops are now ready to go back on to finish the job. Do this with the same care with which they were removed. These do not need to be torqued up insanely high, as they’re held under compression from the spring inside and often also pinched from the outside by the top yoke or clip-on.

So, at the end of all that what did we end up with?

Well, even just a quick squish against the floor of the workshop proved that the results were very noticeable.

The old fork offered very little of anything you’d call damping. On the bike they’d felt reasonable until asked to take fast riding, then they became mushy and unhelpfully vague. The new fork however feels totally transformed. A smoother,  firmer action in both stroke directions with more support on offer; comparing it’s feel with the old fork is like comparing a dainty Filo Parcel with a traditional Cornish Pasty!

The shock dyno supported what we’d felt in the hand (see pic) and shows the extra compression and rebound on offer – where the red line forms a bigger circle than the green one, that’s where we have increased damping (Compression above the horizontal centre line, rebound below it)

So it seems that our FZ forks may well have been much like the first squeeze in our water pistol analogy – very little on offer by way of controlled damping!

As we go to press I’ve yet to ride on them, but having felt the difference in the hand I know it’ll be leaps and bounds better. Even if it’s not perfect off the bat, I know I can tweak it with the adjustment on the PD valve and messing around with oil grades.

It may not be 100% as good as a cartridge fork, but compared to way an old damper rod fork worked, really; what’s not to like?


See them here.. Mad4bikes

Thursday 11 October 2012

OPTIMATE BATTERY CHARGERS & ACCESSORIES

OPTIMATE AND ACCUMATE BATTERY CHARGERS

BATTERY CHARGERS

Here at Mad4bikes we have a full range of battery chargers from a small scooter trickle charger to the Optimate 6 Ampmatic charger. So if you looking for a battery charger for your motorcycle, scooter, lawnmower, car, van or motor home we will have something to suit your needs.
1000`s of batteries are changed every year because they have been damaged by over charging with the wrong type of charger or because they have been left  flat for a pre longed period. A good quality charger will charge, monitor and maintain your battery throughout the year making sure your vehicle is always for action. Keeping the battery charged will also increase the batteries life expectancy.
All the Optimate and Accumate chargers we sell are intelligent (smart) they moniter the battery charge state and turn on and off as required which means they will never cause damage to your battery by overcharging.

One of our most popular battery chargers is the Accumate 6volt / 12 volt charger which is ideal for classic car and motorcycle enthusiasts who may have the need for a 6 volt charger for a classic and a 12 volt charger for their modern motorcycle, etc. 
Our Optimate 2 and Optimate 3 chargers are suitable for scooters, motorcycles, lawnmowers and water craft. 
The Optimate 4 is also suitable for all motorcycles, scooters, lawnmowers, water craft but is specially suited to the BMW motorcycles with the CAN-bus electrical system.
At the top of the tree is OptiMate 6its the latest in OptiMate technology. Featuring TecMate’s latest AmpMatic microprocessor controlled circuitry and is ideal for the larger motorcycle, cars, vans, motor homes and small trucks.
If you have the new lithium ion type battery Optimate also have this covered with the Optimate Lithium charger

OPTIMATE / ACCUMATE ACCESSORIES

To complement the Optimate battery chargers we also sell the full range of Optimate / Accumate battery charger accessories.
From the simple extension lead to the powerful LED emergency torch, we have them all. Our best seller is the Cigarette lighter adapter which allows you to charger phones, sat nav`s and air pumps etc, it simply plugs into the TM71/ SAE71permanent battery connector lead that come with your Optimate charger. New lines just in include the USB charger lead and the Charge Now gadget that warns your before your battery becomes too flat to start the Vehicle.
Take a look at all the accessories here they also make great birthday and Christmas gifts for friends and family.

DONT FORGET TO FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER FOR ALL THE LATEST DEALS AND DISCOUNT CODES

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XCP Professional lubrication and corrosion protection

XCP Is a real game changer in the world of lubrication and protection for cars, bikes, motorcycles and much much more. We love it Edd...